Sublimate the aesthetic act by the quality of the skin 

Dr. Hélène Huguet (PharmD., PhD.)

Scientific Director (Universkin SAS, France)




Sometimes natural, sometimes sophisticated, beauty has many faces and the canons of beauty are constantly evolving over the centuries.

Our body ideal balances between the desire for artificial control and a strong taste for the natural. There are many biological, psychological, cultural and social aspects that influence the perception of beauty and attractiveness. Among them, the image that we send back is nowadays the main support of social interactions. Anatomical aspects such as the shape, proportions or symmetry of the face are obviously not excluded from the beauty component.

However, this image is first and foremost conveyed through the skin and its quality is an important parameter of human attractiveness.Good skin quality is synonymous with good health and youthfulness, two essential parameters in social and emotional perception.

The skin bears witness to a person's history, lifestyle and age. In traditional Chinese medicine, skin color is even used as a diagnostic tool for diseases.

A complex and multilayered organ, the skin ages like other organs and can be affected by diseases. It is now known that women with skin problems, especially on the face, may be particularly prone to depression and an increased risk of suicide.

In 2021, an advisory board composed of 10 dermatologists from 8 different countries defined that skin quality can be described in four broad categories or "Emergent Perceptual Categories" (EPCs): skin tone uniformity, surface uniformity, firmness and radiance.

This classification has the advantage of being applicable to all ethnicities, all age groups and all genders. It is also based on the knowledge of the information used by the brain to evaluate the health of the skin, namely the topography of the surface, the color and the distribution of colors. 

Thus, an image of the skin is the complex product of the reflection of light on the horny layer on the one hand, and on the other hand, the diffusion and absorption of light through the deeper layers, epidermis and dermis, which contain melanin or hemoglobin. 

The classification into four EPCs is intended to help the practitioner determine which aesthetic treatment to apply based on the component that is at fault. 

Biologically speaking, the "firmness" component, for example, describes the elasticity, tension and hydration of the skin.

The firmness of the skin will therefore depend in part on the quantity and condition of the components that are notably hyaluronic acid, elastin and collagen.

From this analysis, it will be possible to describe as potential treatments:

  1. injectable biostimulators (hydroxyapatite),
  2. microfocused ultrasound with visualization (MFU-V),
  3. filling injectables (hyaluronic acids),
  4. or cosmetics
  5. and topical prescriptions of pro-collagen (retinol, etc...),
  6. of growth factors
  7. or biomimetic peptides.

In fact, by volumizing the deep tissues with injectable aesthetic solutions, it is also possible to improve the quality of the skin.

In addition, adjustments in lifestyle, limiting sun exposure, avoiding excessive and aggressive cleansing, and regular use of moisturizers and occlusive emollients can improve skin hydration and thus contribute to the success of the protocol.

We are entering a new era of aesthetic practices, with a more global and transverse approach combining medicine and surgery, dOther skills such as cosmetology, dietetics and well-being practices (sophrology, image consulting).

Practitioners should counsel patients on the importance of understanding that each individual has unique characteristics and that an individualized approach that addresses issues in a holistic manner is the most effective way to address the problem.çon through different care lines is the most effective response.



  1. Daniel B.Y., Behav Sci. 2019 Apr; 9(4): 34.
  2. Samson N, Fink B, Matts PJ, Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010 Jun ;32(3): 167-84.
  3. Kate Goldie et al, Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021 Jun; 14: 643-654.

Aesthetic health based on scientific evidence

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